The Legacy of the Indigo Trade

Indigo, as a global commodity, has profoundly impacted communities worldwide. In pre-colonial times, indigo was highly valued and traded across continents via land and sea routes. The long, rich, and bloody history of the Silk Road—an ancient trade route stretching across Asia into Africa and Europe—is saturated with indigo dye cakes, powders, and textiles.

Shelly Jyoti, The 18th Century Merchant Ship, 2023, India. Ajrakh printing, dyeing, and needlework on khadi fabric, 90 x 102 in. (229 x 259 cm). Museum purchase.

Colonial expansion ramped up the production of cash crops like indigo, tea, coffee, cotton, and sugar. Cash crops were prioritized over local agricultural needs, often leading to dire consequences for regional populations as food cultivation was suppressed and forced labor practices were imposed. Colonial powers, including the English, Dutch, French, and Spanish, established indigo plantations worldwide. In places like India and Indonesia, native knowledge and labor were exploited to produce indigo. In the Caribbean and the United States, enslaved Africans were dehumanized and treated as a commodity—used for their expertise with indigo— and forced to work on plantations.

Blue Gold Exhibition, Mingei International Museum, Photograph by Ron Kerner, 2024.
Jean Baptiste Oscar Mallitte, The Planting & Manufacturing of Indigo in India, 1877, India. Albumen silver prints. Collection of J. Paul Getty Museum, 84.XO.876.8.

Due to high demand, those who controlled the indigo market held immense power. In Europe, the local indigo industry fiercely resisted the influx of imported indigo. Various colonial powers built empires on the back of the indigo trade, laying the groundwork for many of our current social, political, and economic systems. While it is celebrated today for its beautiful blue color and cultural significance, indigo also has a dark and violent history. This complex legacy continues to impact our current lives, reminding us of the intertwined beauty and brutality of its past.

Blue Gold Exhibition, Mingei International Museum, Photograph by Ron Kerner, 2024.
Kendra Johnson (Costume Designer), Erin Rodgers (Draper), and Karen Hall (Dyer). Clothing for Hagar, 2024, United States of America. Cotton, indigo, 5 ft. 9 in. neck to waist. Courtesy of the artists. Photograph by Ron Kerner.

Header Image: William Morris, Medway Furnishing Textile Fragment. Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection T-2771. Courtesy of The George Washington University Museum, Washington D.C. Photograph by Bruce M. White.

Shelly Jyoti, The 18th Century Merchant Ship, 2023, India. Ajrakh printing, dyeing, and needlework on khadi fabric, 90 x 102 in. (229 x 259 cm). Museum purchase.
Blue Gold Exhibition, Mingei International Museum, Photograph by Ron Kerner, 2024.
Jean Baptiste Oscar Mallitte, The Planting & Manufacturing of Indigo in India, 1877, India. Albumen silver prints. Collection of J. Paul Getty Museum, 84.XO.876.8.
Blue Gold Exhibition, Mingei International Museum, Photograph by Ron Kerner, 2024.
Kendra Johnson (Costume Designer), Erin Rodgers (Draper), and Karen Hall (Dyer). Clothing for Hagar, 2024, United States of America. Cotton, indigo, 5 ft. 9 in. neck to waist. Courtesy of the artists. Photograph by Ron Kerner.
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