In Dong Culture, in Guizhou Province of China, shiny fabrics are highly valued. The shine is created using calendaring, which compresses and smooths the fibers of the textile. In many cultures, this is done with mallets, but it is also seen with the fabric wrapped around a roller as a dyer rocks a large stone on top. Often, other mediums, such as animal proteins, are added to create an even shinier material. The textile created in this process is also known to wick away water.
Read more about this coat and vest Moupi Mukhopadhyay’s essay which investigates whether it is made with indigo as opposed to a different blue dye.
