Indigo has been widespread across regions of Southern China, with people of different cultures embracing the deep blues into distinctive styles. Garments such as headwear, jackets, pants, skirts, and shoes end up in the dye vat. In mythology, Emperor Huangdi (a folk hero) said that one should “wear the color of the sky.”
Dyers utilize a variety of resist techniques—such as
tie-dyeing, wax prints, or stitching—and brush work to
create intricate patterns. Embroidery and appliqués, often
in complimentary or contrasting colors, add individuality
and pops of color. Mediums such as egg white, pig’s blood,
buffalo hide glue, persimmon juice, and crushed beans are
used for lacquering, beetling, and calendaring (the
beating of textiles), which add shine and other color
tones or highlights.
Indigo-producing plants found in this region include assam
indigo, Chinese woad, Chinese indigo, and “true” indigo.
wall, left to right
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Jacket
Unidentified Maker, Miao culture
Unknown date
China
Cotton, silk, dyes
Gift of Drs. James and Judith Kemp, 2001-34-036 -
Jacket
Unidentified Maker, Miao culture
Unknown date
China
Cotton, silk, indigo, dyes
Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Allen Chao and the
Hamilton White Foundation, 1998-51-210
platform, left to right
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Jacket
Unidentified Maker, Miao culture
Unknown date
China
Cotton, hemp, silk, indigo
Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Allen Chao and the
Hamilton White Foundation, 1998-51-247 -
Jacket
Unidentified Maker, Yi culture
Unknown date
China
Cotton, silk, silver, indigo
Gift of Dr. James Kemp, 2006-16-048 -
Jacket
Unidentified Maker, Shui culture
Unknown date
China
Cotton, dyes
Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Allen Chao and the
Hamilton White Foundation, 1998-51-029
Gallery View, Jacket Installation, Mingei International Museum. Photograph by Ron Kerner, 2024.