An ikat chapan is an outer coat worn by nomadic and settled Uzbek people and across Central Asia. The decorative trims, called sheroza, are said to prevent evil spirits from entering. Chapans, often gifted to special guests or faithful servants, are a marker of status.
Ikat is a resist dyeing technique where dyers carefully plan color sections and tie off areas before dipping the yarn in various dyes to create intricate designs once woven. Traditionally, Jewish dyers in Central Asia handled indigo dyeing, known as a “cold dyeing,” while other colors were often done by the Tadjik ethnic group in a process called “hot dyeing.”
Under Russian influence, cheaper Russian textiles were widely imported and often used for chapan linings. The introduction of synthetic dyes in the late 19th century replaced many natural dyes, raising questions about whether the blues in these newer ikat coats are natural or synthetic indigo, or even another synthetic blue. What stands is the importance of color combinations, patterns, and craftsmanship in handmade Uzbek ikat.