Indian artist Shelly Jyoti’s work combines symbolic imagery and traditional textile craft to narrate India’s complex socio-political history. She explores the role of indigo in India’s freedom struggle and Gandhi’s first nonviolent protest against the tyranny of British colonial indigo planters. The 18th Century Merchant Ship signifies indigo as a transnational and exploitative commodity, with the European vessel set in a sea of indigo, highlighting Europe’s role in the indigo trade, slavery, and colonization.
Traditional ajrakh block printing in Jyoti’s work celebrates India’s heritage and cultural identity. She collaborates with tenth-generation ajrakh craftsmen, utilizing their reverse block printing technique on hand-spun, woven khadi fabric. This traditional craft, dating back 4,500 years with evidence from the Indus Valley Civilization, continues today by craftsmen in Gujarat (notably Bhuj’s Ajrakhpur and Dhamadka), a few in Rajasthan, and Pakistan’s Sindh province. Ajrakh is a laborious technique involving over 20 steps and the use of natural dyes on pre-treated fabric.
By collaborating with traditional ajrakh craftsmen and employing ancient techniques, Jyoti not only preserves cultural heritage but also brings a contemporary perspective to historical events. The use of khadi fabric and natural dyes emphasizes sustainability and the cultural significance of self-sufficiency in India’s history.